Vertical production cycle
Our production cycle is vertical. We procure the raw materials directly, selecting them according to the features of the finished product we want to obtain.
We import wool, mohair and alpaca of responsibly treated animals mainly from Australia, New Zealand and South America. Depending on the fabric to be made, the fiber can then be carded or combed.
Creativity and rigorous work
The design office has a key role in Tessitura di Crevacuore. Every year we present new winter and summer collection fabrics created by our design team at Milano Unica and Parigi Première Vision fairs.
With the work of our designers the ideas and creativity of fashion designers can turn into reality. Our designers study every feature of fabrics - combination of materials, colors, weaving, finishes.
Technical and aesthetic characteristics that a fabric will show depend crucially on this phase of study and, consequently, impact its use in the creation of a dress.
Spinning and Twisting
Best control over processes
In the spinning process, natural textile fibers are processed to obtain a single, homogeneous continuous thread. Two or more single yarns can be combined - twisted - to create particular threads, such as Bouclé, with peculiar technical and chromatic results that make the creation of even more complex fabrics possible.
Within our vertical production cycle, spinning and twisting are carried out in our departments, so that we can have the best control on the quality of the yarns that will be used in the following phases.
Warping and weaving
Before entering the loom, yarns go through the preparatory phase, which has a great impact on the features of the finished fabric. During the warping, threads are arranged next to each other, to create the desired pattern. The vertical warp threads are wound on the beam which, after the drawing-in, is loaded on the loom. To make the weaving easy, threads can be strengthened through waxing.
We turn into fabric even the most challenging ideas
The weaving phase is at the heart of the whole process. In the loom the horizontal weft thread is intertwined with the warp. The resulting fabrics can be of different weights, plain, yarn-dyed, with loud or typical patterns (eg. pied de poule), bouclé or frisé fabrics, mohair and alpaca fabrics, melton, loden, ottoman, buttoned, crêpe, 3D fabrics and jacquard.
Our looms have a totally computerized processing cycle, from the launch of drawings via CAD to the fully automated management of warping.
In addition to the loom-woven fabrics, Tessitura di Crevacuore also uses knitting machines such as Jersey, extremely versatile, and Raschel, for multi-colored fabric with diagonal weaves.
With the number and variety of the machines we have - 25 looms 2 of which latest generation jacquards, jersey and raschel machines - and our organization of work we can turn the most challenging ideas into fabric, and we can do it quickly and reliably.
Research on new finishes and quality control
To improve its looks, ‘hand’ and features, fabrics undergo the finishing phase, where they get a set of "classical" or more specific treatments, selected according to the technical and aesthetic characteristics required for the finished product.
These operations have great and increasing impact on the appeal and the commercial success of the fabrics; in order to research, test and apply new finishes and to have maximum control on the results, Tessitura di Crevacuore performs all the finishing processes internally.
In Tessitura di Crevacuore each treatment complies with the REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals), a regulation of the European Union adopted to improve the protection of human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemicals.
The hardness of water in the area where we are located is an important asset. In addition to removing impurities and other processing residues, it gives our fabrics a distinctive compactness.
In rope, in large or in torpedo, each dyeing recipe is studied internally, to best adapt to the different fibers in use and ensure we obtain the desired results.
By raising the fibers of its threads the fabric becomes softer and fluffy, the surface gets a hairy appearance and the armor is less visible. This increases the amount of retained air; the thermal insulation properties of the fabric are therefore improved.
By cutting the hairs on the surface, fabrics gain a uniform surface level and become smoother; trimming can have the effect of highlighting the armor.
The dimensional stability of the fabric, obtained at this stage, will allow the fabrics to become non-shrinkable and remain smooth after washing.
In this process the fabric puffs out and dries, its appearance becomes more robust and the hand more substantial. Tumbler also makes fabrics more stable and resistant to washing.
The wool fabric is beaten compact and becomes felted, thick to the point of being waterproof. This process, known since ancient times, is still in use to manufacture traditional fabrics, such as Loden or Melton.
Washing and chemical additives give fabrics water repellent waterproof properties.
Special additives in the washing give the fabric softness and a ‘full-bodied’ hand.
With coating, fabrics become stronger and will give the finished garment greater structure.
This process prevents the development of small pills on the fabric of garments, which is normal after intense use and many washes.