Tessitura di Crevacuore boasts a completely vertical production cycle, which allows it to supply itself with raw materials (originating from the world over, mainly South America and Australia) and, using them as a starting point, obtain a fabric which is finished and packaged, without needing to involve third parties. Something which allows the company to have total control of the production cycle and incomparable levels of quality.
This stage is when the weave, also called frame, and placing on the loom of the fabric are studied. The way in which a fabric is made will greatly influence the technical and aesthetic characteristics it possesses and, as a consequence, its final use in making clothing.
2) Wool from Australia
The wool – mainly imported from Australia and South America – arrives at Tessitura di Crevacuore in bales. These are then redirected to the various treatments (teasing and combing) and, thus, the raw material is ready to be spun.
Spinning consists of working the animal raw material so that it is reduced into a single homogeneous and continuous yarn. Only in this way can it be used in the subsequent warping and wefting phases.
This phase consists in taking two or more single yarns and working them together, so as to create particular yarns, such as Bouclé, with interesting technical and chromatic results, which make even more complex fabrics possible.
In this phase, the yarns are taken from their bobbins and laid taut one beside the other. The more yarns are used, the wider (or literally “tall”) the fabric will be. In the following weaving phase the weft will be woven into the warp.
This phase, carried out on the loom, is the most well-known of the whole process. The weft is woven together with the warp and thanks to the frame and the course of the yarn, the fabric is obtained. With the use of different colours and frames different types of fabric can be created.
In this phase the fabric undergoes a series of treatments. Not all are undergone, since some are optional and depend on the desired technical and aesthetical characteristics of the final product.
Some of the finishing operations are Washing, Dyeing, Drying, Darning ( should the fabric show some slight imperfections), Cropping (to remove superficial fibres) or Teasing (to obtain the opposite effect to Cropping and raise the fibres out of the yarn), Delustre/Steaming (necessary to give dimensional stability to the fabric), Rolling.
Each of these phases complies with REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of CHemicals) regulations.
Besides the classic treatments described above, finishing can also include one or more of the following treatments.
Tumble Dry Treatment. This is a process which allows the fabric to expand and dry. This way it takes on a more substantial look and a denser “hand feel”. This treatment, moreover, makes fabrics more stable and resistant to washing.
Fulling Treatment. Part of Finishing, this process is carried out by beating the fabric to make it more compact. The wool thus becomes more felt-like, thickened to the point that it becomes resistant to water: this is why this process (known in ancient times) is used still today in the production of historic fabrics such as Loden or Cashmere.
Waterproofing Treatment. This treatment is applied to fabric used for clothing which must withstand water and rain. Water-repelling properties are given to the yarn during the washing processes with the use of chemical additives.
Softening Treatment. Gives softness and a full feel to the fabric
Anti-pilling Treatment. This process helps to avoid the annoying formation of small “bobbles” on clothing fabric especially after intense use and many washes.